This is a new section that, hopefully, over a period of time will include useful information for members, whether it be filling in entry forms (aimed at those new to agility), camping and caravanning tips and advice or even tips on how to keep dogs cool at shows etc.

Members can contribute to this section by simply emailing the tips to the .

Show Tips

The Show

The show schedule will give you directions and times of when the show starts. DON'T FORGET to take your RING NUMBER & RUNNING ORDER CARD with you if you are competing! Try and get to the show with plenty of time to spare so that you can exercise your dog in the exercise area (the only place at the venue where your dog is allowed off the lead, except for in the ring of course).

It is advisable not to take toys to throw in this area, it is asking for trouble as every toy mad dog in the field will descend on you and your dog and try to get it off you! Remember to pick up after your dog throughout the day, as failure to do so will probably mean you being asked to leave and being reported to the Kennel Club.

Bin liners or skips are usually provided for dog waste and plastic bags are usually available if you run out.

Find out which classes are being run in which rings you will usually be provided with a ring plan with your running orders.

Each ring will either have Agility (i.e. a course with an A-frame, dog-walk and seesaw) or jumping equipment in it. Both could have suspended or lollipop tyres, rigid and collapsible tunnels, between six and twelve weaving poles, long jump and jumps. The well, gate, wall and table may be used at higher standards of competition.

Walking the Course

Competitors are only allowed to walk the courses before the class starts so it is important to allow yourself plenty of time for this very important part of preparing for agility. If you are not competing but visiting for the first time you may also walk the courses - imagine that you are running a dog and plan how and where you would run.

No dogs are allowed in the ring until they are due to compete so it is wise to leave your dog in the vehicle while you memorise the courses, remember if it is hot to ensure your dog's have plenty to drink and you leave them a window etc open for fresh air, it is also important to remember at some shows the members of the public will be walking around so secure your dogs and vehicle.

The first thing you will notice about the course is that it is numbered - this is a wonderful luxury after training where we often have to memorise a course without the aid of numbers.

{Of course you are not expected to do this at Barkaway we always put numbers out for you}

Take full advantage of these numbers, as you will find them invaluable when you feel you are getting lost on a course! The best way of walking a course is to first walk the whole course working out where the next jump is.

Then go back to the start and decide which side of you, you will start your dog off on bearing in mind where the next couple of obstacles are. Walk the course again slowly planning where you and your dog will be so that you run the least distance so as not to slow your dog up waiting for you.

It can get quite crowded in the ring with over 300+ handlers walking the course at the same time but try not to get distracted. When you are happy with your plan of action stand to one side of the ring, preferably not the start/finish side, so that you can see the course from a different angle. Trace the course out in your mind (or even in the air!) so that you begin to see the course as a pattern or series of patterns. This makes it much easier to remember and recall as you stand waiting to run.

If your running order shows that you are one of the first 20 dogs go and get it, exercise it (so that it will not relieve itself in the ring and be eliminated) and be back at the ringside in time to hear the Judge's Briefing.

At the Judge's Briefing the Judge will announce the course time, how he will start the dogs on the line and that "Standard Rules Apply" - these will be in the show schedule.

If you have any queries this is the time to ask the Judge or check with one of the other more experienced Barkaway members that are bound to be around.

Running The Course

Most competitors wait around at the start of a class to see the first few competitors go round and gauge whether the course is 'easy' or not and whether there are any 'traps'. You can learn a great deal from watching others especially if many of them are making the same mistake and you will then be wary when you reach that part of the course.

One thing to be careful of is to watch dogs of the same speed and temperament as your dog. If you have a steady careful dog you will handle him differently from handlers of faster dogs, who may be inconsistent and even uncontrollable (the dogs that is!)!

The Ring Caller (usually a person with a clipboard and a harassed look) is in charge of the queue and can tell you how the class is progressing.

When your running order is within the specified range you give your running order, name and ring number to the Ring Caller for booking in. Join the queue making sure that you are not obstructing the start and finish obstacles of the course, and that your dog is not annoying those queuing around you.

Take a deep breath, watch the competitors in the ring and try to recall the pattern of the course and your plan of where you will be in relation to each obstacle. Explain to those around you that this is your first show and I'm sure you will find lots of sympathetic people who will dispel your worries.

Ummm of course we will!

When you reach the front of the queue the Scribe or their assistant will check your running order, name and ring number against your score sheet ready for the Scribe to mark as you are running. Again, explain this is your first show and they will tell you how you will be started and not to go before the Timekeeper or Judge says so.

Make sure that you are not carrying any titbits or toys on your person (this includes pockets and 'bum bags') by passing them to a friend nearby. As the competitor before you finishes the course be sure you are on the starting line holding your dog without it's lead or collar on if you still have dangly bits on your collar, if it is just a plain flat collar then you can run your dog with its collar on - these are usually taken to the finish line for you.

Wait for the signal that you can go, take a deep breath and off you go! The timing will only start the clock when the dog crosses the start line so if you can get your dog to wait at the start so that you can run further up the course, you will possibly gain valuable seconds and a higher placing.

This is well worth practising at training. The Timing stops the clock when the dog crosses the finish line so another practice tip is to teach your dog to run on after the last jump rather than waiting for you.

How your Run will be Scored

Here is a guide to how KC Standard marking applies (though you should check the schedule carefully for variations):

5 Faults

• Knocking down a jump; missing a contact; running past or under a jump or tyre or refusing a piece of equipment (this includes turning away from it)*;
• Incorrect entry to the Weaves and weaving once started*;
• Going through the side of a tyre*;
• Jumping the wing of A jump (including the long jump)*;
• The competitor handling or touching the dog.

* Note: If your dog Fails to complete the obstacle you must do it again before going on to the next one - failure to do so will mean elimination.

Elimination

• Dog fouling the ring; dog leaving the ring out of control;
• Taking the wrong Course (this includes running under a jump the wrong way);
• Failing to complete an obstacle correctly (see above);
• Three refusals at the weaves (including entry to them);
• Harsh handling;
• Wearing a collar with dangly bits;
• Carrying titbits or toys on your person;
• Wearing a rosette.

Time Faults

Time Faults will be awarded for every extra second you take to finish the course after the course time has elapsed.

If you are eliminated you are allowed to carry on running the course until the course time has elapsed unless the judge has indicated otherwise or made mention in the briefing. Then the Timekeeper will blow his whistle or call 'time' and ask you to leave the ring.

It is terribly easy to be eliminated, especially when you are a complete beginner. Do not be disheartened by this - look on each class you compete in as valuable learning experience for both you and your dog. As you both become accustomed to running you will start setting your self goals - your first round without being eliminated, your first clear round, your first placing etc.

Luck and patience play a great deal in this sport - those who keep trying eventually improve and gradually move up the classes. Most people do agility because they and their dogs enjoy it so much, trophies and rosettes are just a welcome bonus.

After you heart has stopped pounding and you get your breath back you will be amazed at how quickly the whole thing was over.

Try and learn from your mistakes and listen to those who may have valuable advice for you like your trainer so that you will run better the next time. Most agility faults are caused by handler error (e.g. body language, incorrect commands or taking the wrong course) although the dogs can be at fault sometimes. Whatever happens, make sure you give your dog plenty of praise whatever they have done. They will then associate agility shows as happy fun places to be and you will both be more relaxed.

Once your score sheet has been handed to the Scorer he or she will write your ring number, faults and time in the relevant box on the pink score sheet.

The Scorers don't usually mind if you peep over their shoulder or ask them how you did and what time you were given but please ask, politeness goes a long way.

Why not write the information down against your running order so that you can compare how you did with future shows. It's a great feeling when you look back and see how you are progressing.

Rosettes

Elementary and Starter classes usually give Clear Round rosettes to competitors who complete the course without incurring faults and within the course time. Sometimes shows give these rosettes in other classes so it is well worth checking the schedule.

It is up to the competitor to collect there clear round rosette from either the judge or the Show Secretary after the class, as they are not usually sent through the post.

However, look carefully at the show schedule as some more enlightened shows give their Clear Round rosettes out after the Scorer has recorded the competitor's time and clear round. This saves having to wait around until the prize giving at the end of the day.

Types of Agility Classes

Elementary

Only dogs, owners and handlers who have never won a third prize or above in an Agility and/or Jumping class at a licensed Agility test may enter - in other words the ideal class for the beginner.

These classes are usually very simple in design, going up and down the ring so that you can run your dog on one side of you for the whole of the course. The jumps usually have double poles so that the dogs can see the obstacles more clearly.

The judges are very understanding and usually design the course without any 'traps' such as boxes or crossovers. Just like at Training.

They are also pretty generous with the course times they allow for the class so that there is an opportunity of winning a Clear Round rosette.

There are two drawbacks to an Elementary class. Firstly, there are so few Elementary classes in a year compared to the others and secondly, once you win a third prize or above not only can your dog not compete at this level again neither can you for the rest of your life!

Starter

This class is open to dogs, owners and handlers who have not won an Agility and/or Jumping class at a licensed Agility test (Elementary wins excepted).

There is usually at least one Starters class at a show and it can be very popular. The designs of these courses are usually a bit harder with a box, crossover or change of side for the handler to negotiate.

Many of the jumps may have single poles, which makes it easier for a dog to run under them and this would incur five faults for a refusal. If the dog ran under the jump from the wrong side it would be eliminated, as it would be doing the wrong course.

This class is where all the other beginners will be at a show along with those who may have been competing with their dogs for some time. It's great to stop and chat to them and exchange worries, hopes and fears knowing that they have been through the same experiences themselves.

Novice

By far the biggest class at any show (apart from Open) as so many categories of competitors can compete in this category - those eligible for Elementary, Starters and any dog which has not won a total of two first prizes in Novice, Intermediate, Senior, Advanced or Open level.

The range of abilities of both handlers and dogs is wide in this category.

You may have handlers who may have won a class in the past with another dog having to start their next dog off in this class competing against those who have experienced dogs who may have won a Novice Class already.

Needless to say, the Novice courses are far more convoluted and tricky to run, but most dogs enjoy the challenge even if their handlers don't!

Intermediate

This class is only open to those who are not eligible for Elementary and Starter i.e. beginners cannot enter.

Intermediate courses are usually harder than Novice but it is well worth watching this class to see how the more experienced handler copes with the sharp angles and turns, bewildering choice of obstacles that the dog must attempt in the correct order and how they gain valuable extra seconds taking the shortest possible route.

Senior

Dogs that compete in this class must have won a minimum of two classes, excluding Elementary and Starter wins. Here you are watching some of the best dogs and handlers in the country. They make it seem so effortless and easy with the dedication and practice that goes on behind the scenes and they are a joy to watch and learn from.

Advanced

Open to dogs having a minimum of four wins, two of which must be gained in Intermediate, Senior or Open Agility (not Jumping) Classes (Elementary, Starter and Mo vice excepted). This class is very rare at a show and is for the very elite in the sport.

Open

Any dog or handler may enter this class. As with Novice, the class can be so large that it is split into more than one part e.g. Open Jumping Part One and Part Two. This is because there is a limit on how many dogs a Judge can judge in a day and so the class is split. Therefore there will be two first prize trophies, two second etc. When you send in your application for the show their computer will randomly decide which part you will be entered in and it will be shown on your running order.

Junior

This class is usually spit into the under 12's and over 12 and over but under 18's. At some shows the two age groups may compete in the same class while in others all juniors may compete against each other - check the show schedule. This is one of the rare classes where Small, Medium and Large dogs can compete in the same competition as the jumps are lowered for the relevant dogs.

Pairs

It is well worth finding a pair of the same ability as yourself so that you can both learn and progress from each competition to the next, perfecting your baton passing (the baton always stays in the changeover box) and catching your dog before it runs after the other one!

Some types of Pairs classes can be turn up and go, choosing your partner on the day or a pair being chosen at random on the computer –

The show schedule will explain in more detail,

ABC (Any breed But Collies)

Competition for Large dogs who are NOT Border Collies, Working Sheepdogs (i.e. Border Collies which do not have a pedigree) or their crosses.

Competition Categories

In addition to the usual Agility and Jumping classes some shows put on special classes such as Gamblers, Snooker, Take Your Own Line, Knockout, Helter Skelter, Time Fault and Out etc. These are well worth entering even if it's just for a change! The Judge will explain how they work at the Judge's Briefing but hopefully the next few paragraphs will help you understand all those bewildering competitions you want to enter but are not sure you are eligible for.

Gamblers

The Judge will give a course time in which you have to negotiate as many obstacles as possible in any order. Points are awarded for each obstacle done correctly - 3 points for contact equipment and weaving poles, 2 points for tyres, long jump, tunnels, spreads and well, and 1 point for a jump. When the Timekeeper blows his whistle at the end of the course time you will have a further specified amount of time to successfully complete a 'Gamble' and then return to the finish (a 'Gamble' could be two jumps and a tunnel or a series of jumps and is worth an extra 10 points).

The knack of this class is to be near the 'Gamble' when the whistle blows so that you can do it in the time! The highest score is the winner.

Snooker

The judge sets a course time in which you must negotiate the obstacles as though you were playing a game of snooker. For instance, three jumps would each be a red ball, higher value obstacles being harder ones with a piece of contact equipment usually being the black ball. The highest score hi the least amount of time is the winner.

Take Your Own Line

The object of this class is to do all the obstacles in the ring once in the least amount of tune. You decide which way to do it although it can be an idea to watch those before you and see which way you think is the best.

Knockout

This can be for individuals or pairs. All the dogs taking part go into a draw to determine their running order. You MUST keep to this running order otherwise you forfeit your entry. There are two identical courses and the winner of each run goes through to the next round until eventually a winner is found.

Helter Skelter

This is one of the more simple fun classes. Usually you start with your dog in the centre of the ring on the table. When the dog leaves the start line the clock starts and you negotiate the obstacles in an ever-widening circle until you reach the end, when the clock is stopped. The fastest dog with the least faults wins.

Time Fault & Out

Although the course looks like an ordinary Agility course with numbers there is one slight difference - if you get a fault the whistle blows and you must leave the ring for the next competitor (because of this the class is very quick getting through the competitors so be warned when checking your running order with the ring caller!) If, on the other hand, you negotiate the whole course without making a mistake you must start the course all over again until the course time is up and the whistle blows. The winner is the dog, which goes over the most obstacles in the course time.

Pay On The Day

These classes are often held at the end of a show when a ring has finished its scheduled classes and there is sufficient time to run another class. There are two types of Pay On The Day classes, neither of which have to be entered before the start of the show. The most common is Agility or Jumping course where handlers just turn up, pay their money to a ring official (usually £1) and then run their dog ONCE. Rosettes are awarded to a specified number of placings (clear round rosettes are not usually given).

The other type of POTD is that of a Practice Ring, where, again, you just turn up pay your £1 and have a specified amount of time to run your dog in the ring usually 60 seconds. You can use whatever equipment you like until the Timekeeper blows his whistle for your session to end. You can have as many turns as you like on this type of POTD as long as you keep paying your pound. Money raised either goes to the club running the show or to charity.

Filling in the Apllication Form

Make sure you read the entire schedule both when filling in the form and just before you go to the show to refresh your memory.

A separate application form must be filled in for each handler. Take great care to put in the correct details - the dog's Kennel Club name, sex, date of birth (if known) and breed.

The cost of each class is usually around £2.00+ and I would recommend that you enter ALL the classes that you are entitled to. You can always decide on the day not to do one if you wish but you cannot enter extra classes at the show apart from Pay On The Day.

Double check the classes you are entering, make sure you sign your cheque and enclose a stamped addressed envelope so that your running orders can be sent to you before the show. It is always a good idea to make a copy of the entry form and to date when you sent it off, that way if there is a problem with your entry (i.e. don't recieve your running orders) it is easy to tell what you have/should have entered.

The running orders are invaluable as you then have some idea whether you are running at the beginning of the class or nearer the end - either way you must turn up early or you will not be able to walk the course before the competition begins.

Your ring number is the large number on the front of the card, your running order is the number next to the class on the back of the card and the number in brackets is the number of dogs entered in that class. Make sure you send your application form off in plenty of time before the closing date.

Dogs of 17" and over at the shoulder are classed as Large and the majority of agility classes are for this category. If the class does not specify Small or Medium it is usually for Large dogs only.

The maximum height of obstacles for Large dogs is 2' 1.6" (650mm)..

Final Note

Most of the time spent at an Agility Show is spent waiting, watching other competitors, shopping at the various stalls, chatting with old and new friends and eating and drinking either at the mobile catering vans or your own fare. It is a very relaxing day out for all the family - apart from those fraught seconds spent running with your dog on those courses, SO ABOVE ALL enjoy it!

This information is for assistance only. Barkaway Dog Agility can take No Responsibility for any errors, omissions or changes in Kennel Club Regulations .

Remember all height categories change in January 2006